Nica Adventures Part II: Leon and the Beach

Escaping the sweaty chaos of Managua (escaping is the best term), we headed to the charming and historic colonial city of Leon. Leon is a mere hour journey from Managua, but what a difference an hour can make. Crammed in a crowed minivan, we were happy to arrive at the dusty bus terminal. Taxi drivers in Leon are friendly, and the rates are set,no haggling required.
We spent our first evening in a charming colonial home, converted into a small hotel. It had a wonderful garden, and a comfy bed, but the family run ambiance was a little too strong, so we relocated to an equally comfortable and slightly cheaper new hotel a few blocks away.
Leon is not the most beautiful of Nicaragua's colonial cities, but it has a certain charm. The central plaza is clean, but spartan, with some very interesting murals and some viciously anti-American graffiti. The cathedral, one of Leon's many large churches, is decidedly dirty, coated with the ashes of many volcanic eruptions.
We skipped the plethora of museums, and instead, engaged ourselves in a number of day trips using Leon as a base.
We traveled to the small hamlet of San Jacinto, to see fumurolic pools. These little pits of boiling mud appear in this valley, a by product of the smoking Volcan Santa Clara that looms in the distance. Smiling children, with a well practiced patter, run to meet any visiting Gringo that happens by. The children are a necessary, as portions of the ground around the pits are very unstable and subject to collapse. The children (and visitors) also provide an important economic contribution to the impoverished town. Admission is reasonable, and there is a line of women selling volcanic rocks and pre-Columbian stone artifacts (I picked up a nice biface for 50 cents). The bubbling pits are interesting, and come in two colours of boiling mud: red or black.
Our next trip was to the beach towns of Poneloya and Las Penitas. This was a reconnaissance mission, but we made an enjoyable day of it, and found a nice Hotel for later. The beach was uncrowded and mostly clean, although the sand was too hot for our virgin feet to handle. Swimming was not recommended due to strong rip tides that kill annually.
The next day was given over to Nicaragua's most important historical site, the ruins of Leon Vijeo (Old Leon). This was the original location the Spanish chose for the City, but was abandoned after only a short period of time due to a catastrophic volcanic eruption that buried the city in 1610. The actual site itself is not really that engaging, although the setting is quite pretty, with a nice view of Volcan Momotombo (the towns nemesis). This is the final resting place of Francisco Hernandez de Cordobra (who was beheaded by the Govenor whom he appointed in a truly epic struggle for power). It was in Leon Viejo that we first learned the Nicaraguan practice of compulsory guides. The tour felt a little rushed, but the walk back in the village of Puerto Momotombo was pleasant and sunny.
Leon had a good selection of street food, including the infamous fritangas. These are food stands, or in some cases buffet style restaurants that serve up the traditional deep fried fare that comprises Nicaraguan cuisine. Leon is a difficult place to find breakfast, and in most cases, its simply easier to wait for lunch.
It was our last day in Leon that I learned how truly hellish the ordeal of cashing travelers cheques in Nicaraguan banks can be. First off, it is important to locate the correct bank, there is only one that can perform this magical transaction. Then you must wait in line to have your cheques scrutinized (this takes about 45 minutes). Unfortunately, at this juncture, you must return to the much longer general line, and stand around for at least another hour before converting your cheques to Cordobras (minus of course, the 5% commission). Remember to ask for small bills, or you will end up with 500 Cordobra notes, that absolutely no one can make change for. It is interesting to note, that although banks are heavily guarded by armed security personal, and despite the fact that all bank patrons must pass through metal detectors when entering, that you are not allowed to wear hats with the brim facing forward(backwards is okay). Fortunately, banks are well air conditioned.
From Leon, we head for a few days R&R at the beach. Las Penitas is quiet and uncrowded, with some good eating and drinking options. Unfortunately, Kira fell ill with a vicious "fritanga related" disease, and spent most of her time in bed or on the toilet. I watched the sun set and drank many cold bottles of Victoria Lager.